Off the Shelf: Silk and Steel: A Comparison of Fashion in the Late Feudal Era
Silk and Steel: A Comparison of Fashion in the Late Feudal Era
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Whether it is crafted from silk or steel, for hundreds of years people have been crafting clothing as a way to fulfill their need for physical comfort, artistic expression, and displaying social status. In the late feudal era this was particularly evident in England during the Elizabethan era (1558-1603), and in Japan during the Azuchi-momoyama (1573-1615) period. This exhibit was crafted with the intent to highlight and compare these two cultures, displaying their unique craftsmanship, and gives insight to the people who wore them. Please stop by Logan Library to enjoy the exhibit which will run Nov. 5- Jan. 31, 2025.
-This exhibit was curated by library intern, Willow Raymond '25
"The Medieval Feudal system declined during the Elizabethan era and although Elizabethan Knights fought as soldiers for the Queen the title was conferred upon Elizabethans as a matter of prestige. Courtiers and Nobles still took part in Tournaments and were expected to be able to use the weapons of the era. Codes of Conduct and the strict etiquette of everyday court life revolved around the Code of Chivalry, courtly manners and courtly love. A young noble would start their life as a Page and then move up to the role of a Squire and then a knight. It was the duty of a Knight to learn how to fight and so serve their Queen according to the Code of Chivalry. The Code of Chivalry dictated that Elizabethan Knights should be brave and fearless in battle but would also exhibit cultured Knightly qualities showing themselves to be devout, courteous and generous. Weapon practise included enhancing skills in the two-handed sword, battle axe, mace, dagger and lance."
"Japanese armour is closely associated with a variety of traditional techniques that were extremely complex at the time, such as black smithery, gold smithery, dyeing, leatherwork, and woodwork. Each suit of armour reflected the social status of the samurai and his code of ethics. They also gave insights into the wearer's intentions, taste, will, and faith. The armour was constructed with an aim to be practical as well as aesthetically pleasing. Furthermore, it is linked to historical dramas and eloquently conveys the culture of the samurai to future generations."
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"Clothing styles changed throughout Japanese history. Fashion of the Nara period (645-794) was highly influenced by Chinese styles, especially in the use of silk. During the Heian period (794-1185), it was popular to wear many layers of clothing in fact; women of the elite class would wear as many as 15 to 40 layers! The practice of wearing these layers was later discarded during the Kamukura period (1185-1333), when people wore just the under-robe, called the kosode, which means small sleeve, referring to the opening at the wrist. The kimono style we know today is derived from the kosode. One of the most important fashion eras in Japan was the Edo period (1615-1868). During this time a new dyeing process was developed and detailed patterns became popular."
"As the Queen of England and the nation’s most powerful woman, Elizabeth's taste set the 'look' of the 1500s.
Many of the women around Queen Elizabeth I at court could be seen wearing her cast-offs and others in society strove to emulate her style. Elizabeth’s dress evolved throughout her reign, from the fairly restrained graceful lines fashionable in her youth, to the narrow-waisted, puffy-sleeved, large-ruffed, full-skirted styles worn in her later years."
Watch from start to finish the elegant process of putting on a traditional kimono.
Links
"JAPANESE ARMOUR" by NISHIOKA SAMURAI’S ARMER & BRAIDING STUDIO
Click the above image to check out a digital exhibit from Google Arts & Culture.
"The ancient history making and wearing a kimono", The Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts, FUREAIKAN
Click the above image to check out a digital exhibit from Google Arts & Culture.
Home to the world's largest and most comprehensive collection of fashion, the Victoria and Albert Museum gives an in-depth look into the history of fashion. One of the most unique items from the museum is the Almain Armourer's Album which show cases hand drawn designs of Elizabethan armor. For more information click on the image above.